Sailing away with Nikk and Jan

Archive for the ‘Birdwatching in Mexico’ Category

Appreciation of Beauty and Excellence

As some of you know, I have another blog where I post to the WordPress Weekly Photo Challenge.
For those of you interested, it’s http://www.curiositycafe.wordpress.com. A site called 61 Musings “liked” my recent post, and I went to see what they had posted. What luck, it’s a wonderful site with musings on introversion. I learned a lot, and I am definitely in an introverted state of mind at present, I call it my “hermit phase”. The site had a link to another site, with a Character Strength quiz, http://www.viame.org.
Many fellow introverts scored highest with Appreciation of Beauty and Excellence, as I did. The natural world is a constant source of inspiration and connection for me, as is art, music and writing. So here are some images from the past six weeks since I returned to La Cruz from Portland.

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A broad-billed hummingbird with two baby birds in the nest

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Koi at the Vallarta Botanical Gardens

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Two gringos cooling off in the river at Vallarta Botanical Gardens

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Four-foot long Green Iguana in a tree at the marina

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Peg admiring the local “art” at Ana Banana’s Restaurant

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The Happy Girls, happy because we’re in Mexico on the beach

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A fisherman returning in his panga right before the full moon came up

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The Full Moon from the marina Mar. 16, looking across the anchorage to Bucerias.

Tomorrow we leave for a week-long adventure to visit Copper Canyon in Chihuahua, a canyon deeper than the Grand Canyon, home to the reclusive Tarahumara Indians, two bus rides and a spectacular train ride away from La Cruz. With luck we will come back with pictures and many stories to share.

Birds of the Costa Alegre

Once more the speeding train of time has swiftly moved, and here I am, back in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle after over a month in Portland, Oregon, helping my daughter’s household run smoothly after the birth in mid-December of the new, lovely granddaughter. With two older boys, 7 and 4 also at home, I was pretty much busy from 7am until about 9pm. So here at last are some pictures of the birds we saw in November and December as we explored the Costa Alegre (see the two previous posts for more about our adventures).

This post might be titled The Cacti and the Mangroves, because our closest sightings of birds occurred on the islands populated with huge cardon (?) cacti, or in the estuaries populated with mangroves. Very different ecologies, and very different bird sightings. The cacti were roosting spots for Magnificent Frigatebirds, Black Vultures, and Brown Boobies. Brown Pelicans roosted in nearby trees, and the occasional furtive dweller back in the thick tangles of vegetation would tease me with a quick sighting that defied identification. I was surprised to see Brown Boobies perched on cacti.

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The Brown Boobies were nesting underneath the cacti, and even out in the open on the occasional grassy spots, which is why Isla Pasavera is so popular with the birds, because of it’s steepness, there are areas where the vegetation is mostly grass.

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Just like on Isla Isabel last spring, the Boobies were hardly disturbed by our presence, I don’t think that too many people climb up the steep hillside above a tangle of cacti and other plants, to take pictures of the birds. We found this pair, were they greeting, courting, or fighting?

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At Punta Perala, and again at Tenecatita, there were long estuaries to explore with the kayaks, sometimes wide open, sometimes close and dense, so dense that in one place we needed to take apart our paddles and use just half the paddle like a canoe paddle, dodging the mangrove roots that closed in around us.

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After about two hours of paddling and exploring in the Tenecatita estuary, we came out of the thick growth of mangroves to find a lagoon perhaps a half mile wide, with a deserted fishing camp at one end.

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The estuaries are rich with life, the vegetation and water and air supporting all the animals, from the tiny gnats and spiders to the large herons and egrets, all part of the teeming variety of creatures there. We didn’t ever see a crocodile in these waters, I’m not sure if they have been hunted for flesh and eggs by the local Mexicans, if they are really elusive, or if we just didn’t spot any. Here are some promised shots of some of the birds we saw.

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White Ibis

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Tri-colored Heron

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The first picture was tweaked with Snapseed, to make it really green. The Great Blue Heron and the Great Egret look like they ingested green dye instead of fish. The next bird is a Lesser Yellowlegs, doing the Stroll. (That’s a dance from the early 60’s, in case you never saw American Bandstand).

In the mangroves we also saw Belted Kingfishers, Green Kingfishers, Long-billed Curlews, Marbled Godwits, Whimbrels, Black-necked Stilts, Yellow-crowned Night Herons, a Common Black Hawk, Mangrove Swallows, Tropical Kingbirds, Great Kiskadees, and we startled a Paraque, which usually is active only at night. Hope you’ve enjoyed this cactus and mangrove tour. For something different, the next blog will probably show shots of this past week, when I worked for two days in a spay and neuter clinic, and then got to do chemistry with four young friends here in the marina.

Costa Alegre, The Cheerful Coast

Finally I am posting a few pictures from our sail (actually from our mostly motorsail) down from Punta Mita to Barra de Navidad last month. That stretch of coastline is called Costa Alegre, which translates to The Cheerful Coast, or The Happy Coast. It’s a remote stretch of a beautiful junction of long, pristine beaches and rocky islands and outcrops. Some development has taken place, especially in Careyes, where a Club Med occupies one end of the little bay, and a stretch of very colorful mini-mansions and condos marches down to the former Bel-Air hotel at the other end.

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Little Tehuamixtle on Ipala Bay. We anchored here two nights and explored the town and hillside above. Nikk climbed the lighthouse and scared off the resident Black Vulture.

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We snorkeled in most of the bays we anchored in, and even found an old wreck right off the beach of Tehuamixtle. We have definitely decided that I am purchasing an underwater camera when I go to Portland in January. The kayaks also had a lot of use, taking us to shore for some landings in the waves that were way too exciting, or inland on the estuaries to look for birds, or around some of the islands.

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Those last two shots show the different kinds of kayaking in peaceful estuaries or rolling waves. I don’t get pictures of the exciting landings through the surf because the camera is safely stowed away in the waterproof case, but that’s another reason to invest in a Go Pro waterproof camera that I can strap to my head.

The islands are mostly protected for the nesting birds. I’m going to do another post to show some of the birds we communed with on the way down.

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This is Isla Passavera in Chamela Bay, home to frigatebirds, vultures, and Brown Boobies, who all roost at the tops of cacti, a strange sight.

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To Be Continued….our friends are waiting for us to paddle in to spend a day ashore.

. If you travel this section of the west coast of Mexico by boat, you must find a bay with shelter from the prevailing swell, or have a rocky and rolly night. If you travel by land, just take a road off Hwy 200 coming down from Puerto Vallarta that travels west to the beach. There are magical spots for camping on or near the beach, just have plenty of insect repellant. We have specially-made screens for the hatches and the companionway opening, the screens are extra-fine mesh that keeps out even the tiny, horrible biting gnats called Jejenes, and we are so grateful for them!

When we sailed into Carayes, we felt like we’d been transported from rural Mexico to the Riviera.

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Careyes refers to the Careyes Turtles which lay eggs on the beach just south of the little village of Careyes. These are very endangered turtles, and the area has been turned into a closed and protected preserve. If you have a car you can drive to the preserve and ask to help in December, when the turtles come ashore, or later when the eggs hatch, to shepherd the little hatchlings safely to the ocean. I’m sure they would welcome contributions of money, too.

There was only one restaurant in Careyes, Playa Rosa, with pink bungalows for rent. We paddled in and ordered lunch and drinks. The lunch of fish in a delicious garlic and wine sauce, with rice and vegetables was very tasty, but we gagged when we received the bill of 900 pesos (about $78US)! I had to use the favorite expression again, “Hijole!”. (Holy crap!)

Hope you enjoyed the pictures, I will try to post a blog for those birders out there soon, but if that doesn’t happen for a while, then I’ll say Feliz Navidad!

In Search of the Roseate Spoonbill

“Search and ye shall find”, that was our motto for Tuesday and Wednesday, December 3rd and 4th, as we set out by kayak on Tuesday, and by foot on Wednesday, to spot the Roseate Spoonbill, a large ibis-like bird with pink and white plumage and pink legs. Almost four years ago we were here in a car and somehow went down a dirt road to a hotel near a lagoon, and spotted this bird, and we wanted to find it and more.

Do you believe in omens and signs? If you do, then our sighting of the resident Great Egret that morning might have been a good omen.

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We paddled out of the Wyndham Grand Bay marina long past the crack of dawn, enjoying tea and coffee and breakfast on Balance, in the beautiful marina. Here is the view from the sixth floor terrace of the hotel bar, looking out across the marina to the far edge of the Laguna de Navidad, where we would paddle ourselves eventually.

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The marathon adventure started just after high tide, and since Monday was a New Moon, the tide was extremely high, the Royal Terns we found had a tiny finger of sand in the lagoon across the way in Barra de Navidad.

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Was the one on the right gargling? Swallowing a fish? Calling for help? You decide. We paddled over to one of the canals, dragged the kayaks up on a wall, and headed down a dirt road in search of the white hotel and the Roseate Spoonbill. We saw some black, Groove-Billed Anis, Streak-backed Orioles and even an unidentified hummingbird, but when we reached the end of the road there was nothing but mangrove trees and beach. A Mexican man and his son did catch two good-sized fish near us. Back in the kayaks, we cruised east along the edge of the mangroves looking for an estuary. We found a swift-flowing stream coming out of a tunnel of mangroves, so in we paddled. Part way in we began thinking about the tide going out, and what was now a foot of water might be a few inches in a little bit of time, stranding us in thick mud. Soon downed mangroves blocked our way, and we made it back to the lagoon, with no sight of the white hotel.

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By this time, we were getting a bit hungry, and across the lagoon Mary’s Restaurant in Colimilla called to us. Barra de Navidad is in the State of Jalisco (just like Puerto Vallarta), but the Wyndham Grand Hotel and Colimilla are in the State of Colima. It sounds so impressive to say we paddled from Jalisco to Colima, and so we did. After a wonderful lunch of shrimp cocktail, guacamole, and papas rellenos (baked potatoes filled with shrimp and slathered with cheese), and lots of soda water for me and beer for Nikk, we paddled our refreshed selves right into a headwind going around the little island, and across to where we saw a LOT of large white birds flying. And paddled, and paddled, and caught spray into the kayak and all over us, which was cooling, and paddled past the golf course, kind of weird to see a golf course in the middle of mangrove swamp and tropical deciduous forest. Finally we arrived at the far edge of the lagoon and saw hundreds of wading birds: Great Egrets, Snowy Egrets, extremely long-necked Tri-colored Herons, Great Blue Herons, Little Blue Herons, Whimbrels, Willets, White Ibis (which have a long pink curved bill and pink feet), but no Roseate Spoonbills. The water was getting extremely muddy and shallow, only about six inches of water under our kayaks, but there was one more group of birds to see, and there they were, Roseate Spoonbills!

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On the way back we were blown off course numerous times, but managed to avoid being run over by the speeding pangas (fishing boats acting as taxis), and I got this picture of the Wyndham Grand Bay Hotel. It’s Italianate style, with lots of marble and iron and tiles, a bit run down but it looks lovely from the lagoon.

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The next day dawned clear and hot, after a very humid night aboard Balance, trying to sleep with a fan blowing air into the V-berth where we sleep. Up at seven, and by eight we were hauling ourselves and our coffee and tea out to the end of the dock, where a panga picked us up and took us across to Barra de Navidad. We walked all the way through town, past the canals, found Calle Velero, a promising street we found on the internet, saw lots of birds, but no white hotel, no estuary, and no Roseate Spoonbills. So we headed east, but ran into fenced fields with horses, no stopping us now, we walked down a dusty main street going out of town, then down a dirt road past Mexican houses and fields, where we sighted a large bird. Here he is, he was displaying for a female of the species, watched over by a large brown bull.

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All along a muddy dirt track, past a papaya plantation carved out of the forest, then out in the hot, hot sun to find a herd of goats, and finally a huge house at the edge of the lagoon, that we’d seen the day before from the kayaks. We were WAY too far east, so back we went, the only exciting bird sighting was a Happy Wren. We don’t have a good picture, it was hiding in a tree, but here is a link: www.inaturalist.org/taxa/pheugopedius_felix The “felix” is probably Latin for happy? We were way too hot and sweaty for much happiness, so back we trudged.

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Suddenly we spotted the white hotel, and after making our way through some barrios, then enclaves of gringo homes, down a dirt path and a long, long street, and then another dirt road, we found the Hotel Escondido, and the lagoon, and another Roseate Spoonbill! Back through town, badly in need of lunch, since our only breakfast was one energy bar, we sat down at Popeye’s at the south end of Barra de Navidad, right on the beach, and were completely fed with nachos for Jan and BBQ chicken for Nikk. Since Nikk’s nickname is Popeye, of course we had to take a picture of Nikk with another Popeye, the owner of the restaurant.

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Hard to believe our week at the marina is almost done. Tomorrow we sail up to Melaque, only four miles away, to anchor for a few days. If I can find some good internet connection, I’ll post another tale of our ten days sailing and motoring down the Costa Allegre, the Happy Coast, from Punta de Mita to Barra de Navidad, with some wonderful times kayaking and snorkeling and exploring. Now I’m going to listen to this excellent guitarist playing and singing here in the hotel bar. His voice is like auditory velvet. Adios amigos y amigas.

WXYZ: Witches, Xocolatl, Yelapa, and Zoology

Witchy Woman scared a few kids and maybe grownups too in La Cruz on Halloween night. About a hundred kids showed up at Philo’s to get candy from the patrons. Nikk and I were two of four winners of the costume contest, my thanks to Allison for painting my face and loaning me a costume!

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Philo said that Nikk wasn’t really wearing a costume, since he dresses like that every day.

The kids were adorable.

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I could (and might) do a whole post for the blog about the restaurants of La Cruz, but I’ll just mention four. First is Xocolatl, located on a hill above the town, with the best view of the bay and the marina. By the time you’ve hiked up from the marina, and then climbed about a hundred steps, you’re really ready for food. Xocolatl provides huge platters of seafood or traditional Mexican dishes and we’ve always been too full to sample any desserts. Back in town, Philo’s serves pizzas, spaghetti, and on Tuesday’s Nikk’s favorite, all-you-can-eat-ribs with coleslaw and baked beans. Just a few doors down from Philo’s is Los Sillas Rojas (The Red Chairs), named for the red plastic tables and chairs set out in the street. I absolutely love their quesadilla, with beans, onions, cilantro, four different sauces, and a little plate of radishes and limes, and only 30 pesos, about $2.20 US. Finally, for breakfast once or twice a week we head over to Ana Banana’s to visit with other folks who live in La Cruz, on boats or in condos or homes. The breakfast enchiladas are sometimes really spicy, but delicious. These are some of the restaurants that we will miss, and I’ll mention one more that just opened, Gecko Rojo, where we’ve had clam chowder, chinese food, and fish and chips, something different is served each night.

Ana Banana’s hosted The Day of the Dead holiday ceremony Nov. 2. This is a Mexican holiday, Nov. 1 the Mexicans honor children that have passed, and Nov. 2 is dedicated to adults. One corner of the restaurant had a huge altar that stretched out along the floor in front, with pictures, flowers, foods or items that the deceased friends or relatives liked while they were alive, and lots of candles. There was a ceremony remembering and blessing the ones who are no longer with us, then a performance by a local troop of young people dancing traditional Mexican dances.
Many people have their faces painted to look like the Katrinas.

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Ana Banana’s has another tradition I discovered the second time I ate there. I asked about the Seagram’s bags hanging from the rafters and was told they contained the ashes of former relatives and friends, especially friends who spent a lot of time hanging out at Ana Banana’s. I was shocked speechless. Now I understand that it is a way to honor and remember the ones who have passed on, but then all I could think of was the fact I was sitting and eating my enchiladas underneath the remnants of a corpse.

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On a cheerier note, Nov. 7 we took a party boat from Nuevo Vallarta to Yelapa and back. Nikk won this trip last July in a raffle, about two days after we returned from celebrating Nikk’s birthday in Yelapa. It was a really fun Vallarta Adventures trip, with a stop to snorkel and kayak in some clear waters, then on to Yelapa, a small isolated village on the southern shore of the Bay of Banderas, that caters to tourists. From our guide, Davd, we learned local history, botany and zoology as we walked up and up through the town to the waterfall high above.
It had just rained, so the water was a shade of brownish-orange, and a lot of people on the trip swam.

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Back down through the jungle we hiked, across a muddy, shallow river (luckily there are no piranhas here), and plopped ourselves down on beach chairs to have drinks and be solicited by local vendors. I did buy a bracelet of green stones from Miguelito, who has eight children, several of them are studying at the university at Puerto Vallarta (at least I think that’s what he said).

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I should mention that on the way back to Nuevo Vallarta, part of the crew dressed up in long wigs and seventies rock costumes, then entertained us out on the deck with rock and roll oldies until we ran into a rain squall. Good food, beautiful scenery, all the drinks we could drink, and a friendly bunch of crew and passengers made it a great trip.

Now for the rest of the zoology in the title. Turtles returned to the marina right before we left and swam around in the marina, sometimes for days. I am wondering if these turtles were hatched in La Cruz before the marina was built in 2007, and have returned, looking for the sands they came from. Several rescue organizations exist here in the bay that collect the eggs laid by the turtles, then when they hatch, protect them as they slowly crawl to the water.

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Today, Nov. 11, we’re anchored once again in Punta de Mita, but with almost no other boats. The weather has turned, the monsoon season seems to be over (although it’s still 90 degrees during the day, but cooling down into the mid-70’s at night, which is a LOT cooler than 82 or 83) and we are ready to sail down south tomorrow to Ipala, terra incognita for us. We paddled in to grab some drinks and guacamole at a beach palapa restaurant, Coral, and were serenaded by chortling Great-tailed Grackles perching at the next table.

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Nikk is ready to jump naked into the water and clean off the propeller so the knot log will work tomorrow, and I’m ready to make marlin tacos with salad for dinner, and watch the sun go down.

The Magic of the Sea of Cortez

From March 16 to 25 Balance took us north of La Paz up to the desert islands and the coast of Baja in the Sea of Cortez, and then back to La Paz, where I’m writing this in a hurry so we can do chores, provision, refuel, do laundry, and begin to sail (hopefully) back across to mainland Mexico tomorrow. This segment of the adventure was pure magic most of the time, though with its moments of breakdown and minor injury. We said goodbye to friends on the 16th and motorsailed up to El Candelerio Cove on Isla Espiritu Santo to spend the night. Calm seas soon turned rough as a SW wind began to build swells that made us “hobby horse” all night. We tried to sleep on the settees, but had a rough night, so we left the next morning at 7am to motor the 2.6 miles back to Partida Cove between Isla Espiritu Santo and Isla Partida, where we explored before. On the way we realized that the chart plotter/radar wasn’t working. It’s our way to see depth, location and at night locate other vessels. Nikk tore it apart, hoping it was just a connection to the switch, but the fault lies in one of the boards of electronics, and will have to be sent back to RayMarine for fixing. Back to handheld GPS and paper charts, although we do have a sextant just in case all the electronics fail. Luckily Partida Cove was much calmer, as the winds blew outside the cove for two days straight. Paddling along the volcanic cliffs, snorkeling, hiking arroyos to caves, visiting with fellow cruisers and some sea kayakers, relaxing on the boat and reading, then cooking some delicious meals. What did we eat? On this part of the trip we ate red snapper cooked with olive oil, garlic, onions and Papa John’s seasoning, accompanied by salad; lasagna with spinach noodles and homemade sauce with salad again, (the salad is a real treat); fish tacos with lettuce, tomato, onion, black olives, sour cream and salsa, with pear pie for dessert (given to us by our friends on Brainstorm); BBQ bonita tuna (sold to us by fisherman Arturo in Partida Cove) with coconut rice and more salad; stew of pinto beans (cooked in the pressure cooker), carrot, yam,cabbage, onion, cumin, vinegar, salsa and salt, (a picture is at the end of this blog) with blueberry muffins for dessert; pinto beans with carrots, poblano and red peppers, olives and goat cheese in mole sauce with coconut rice and BBQ steak for Nikk. Of course lots of guacamole most days made with avocado, garlic, lime, salt and tabasco sauce. OK, I’m getting really hungry and it’s almost 11:30am with no breakfast yet, so I’m going to go pick up the laundry and head over to the Mercado Bravo, the indoor market, for fish, meat, vegetables and fruit, and some pastries. Hopefully this blog will be continued tonight.

We saw all the birds mentioned in other blog posts, plus a heron rookery in fig trees on the cliffs of Isla Partida, many nesting Yellow-footed Gulls, bunches of little “families” of Eared Grebes diving way deep to get fish and crustaceans, the males were just starting to get their orange “ear” plumage and it contrasted nicely with their red eyes. There were Phainopeplas and Northern Cardinals at Agua Verde where the trees, bushes and palms were still very green, probably from last fall’s Hurricane Paul. There were also Reddish Egrets at Partida Cove and Isla San Francisco, when they hunt they do a hopping, skipping dance on their long legs, very hilarious to watch. Most islands had Ospreys nesting too, we’d hear their keening cries as they flew. We got lucky on this part of the trip and had few bugs, no sand flies, fleas, or jejenes, and only one bite from a horse fly, of all things, at Partida Cove. Still, there must be enough insects to support all the lizards as well as birds. We mostly injured ourselves on the scenery, Nikk banging his head on the overhangs at the caves, Jan slashing her legs on thorny bushes while hiking at Agua Verde. The most spectacular animal sighting was the pod of hundreds of dolphins that we sailed through while heading back south past Isla San Jose. They were leaping, some doing back flips and even one double back flip! Because we saw even more the next day, also heading north, I think that maybe the season of spring leads to some sexual frenzy, perhaps, or maybe just a feeding frenzy. They weren’t interested in playing with the bow wake at all, just determinedly swimming and doing acrobatics. From the internet I learned that the gestation period for dolphins is about a year, with orcas it’s 17 months, and the females only breed about every 3-5 years. I guess if one only got to have sex once every three to five years there might be a reason for the frenzy. We also heard that Orcas have been seen in the Sea of Cortez this spring, but we didn’t see any. While we were gone from La Paz a juvenile humpback whale thirty feet long was stranded on a shoal at low tide, and many residents and cruisers came out to help get a rope around the tail and tow it to deeper water, which took about two hours to accomplish. After seeing the videos I’m grateful that there were so many people with compassion willing to help a stranded whale. www.grindtv.com/outdoor/nature/post

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Partida Cove from the cave

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Beautiful Side-blotched Lizard at Partida Cove (it’s name sounds like it has a disease).
It is only about 4 inches long.

On Saturday the 20th the winds died down as promised, we sat out in the cockpit enjoying the calm, until the lure of future islands became strong enough to get us going to up anchor and head north to Isla San Francisco. The knot log wheel below the water line almost always gets fouled with growths of barnacles and refuses to turn, which we discover when underway. Then Nikk gets to shed clothes and jump into the water (after slowing the boat down, of course) to knock off the growth before we continue on. We need to invent a way to knock off the growth from the comfort of the cockpit. The water temperatures have been only in the high 60’s or low 70’s, I need a full wetsuit to go snorkeling, so Nikk gets pretty chilled while freeing the knot log wheel.

After motorsailing for three hours in almost no wind and three to four foot northerly swells, we viewed Isla San Francisco; the southern end has hills of red, green and gray volcanic rock, and the anchorage is in 25 feet of water off a beach of brilliant white sand.

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The brilliant white sand was an illusion, when we paddled in to the beach, we found ground up coarse particles of gray, red and white shells, coral and rock. Behind the beach is a salt pan, and behind that on the east side is a beach with big boulders of red, green and gray, the green of the rocks making the water a striking emerald color.

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One of the lures of the desert islands is climbing the hills, the mostly irresistible desire to see the view from “up there”. Luckily Nikk loves to climb and scramble too.

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On Isla San Francisco there are elephant trees that grow along the ground, but only in certain places.

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Balance motorsailed again the next day to San Evaristo on the coast of Baja, a little village with lots of fishermen and also some huge salt pans where salt is heaped and bagged for shipping to La Paz. I wondered how many of our meals in La Paz were flavored with San Evaristo salt? After a short while in the village we’d seen four burros, several friendly dogs, some doves, a small school (where we wondered why the children weren’t in school until we realized it was Sunday, it’s too easy to lose track of time, days and maybe even weeks while sailing), a little tienda, and an open air restaurant with a very limited menu and selection of drinks. We purchased groceries at the tienda, and fish tacos at the restaurant, then back to the boat to study Spanish, play the accordion, finish Steinbeck’s Log From the Sea of Cortez, and get a really good night’s sleep in a quiet anchorage. Steinbeck chronicles the avaricious collecting expedition from Monterey to the Sea of Cortez in 1940 on an Alaskan purse seiner, led by his friend Ed Ricketts, the biologist and owner of Pacific Biological Laboratory, which provided specimens for schools, labs and universities, including paying boys to bring him cats, which he then euthanized and injected with colored latex to show their blood vessels. Nikk is reading it now, and I’m interested to see what happens when he gets to the parts where Steinbeck undertakes some stiff theological pondering and probing. My favorite part of the book this time through was his attempt to describe Ed Ricketts, who died after his car was struck by a train in Monterey in 1948, eight years after the expedition. Steinbeck writes an aching tribute for his friend, turning his powers of analysis on Ricketts complex personality, given that not one of his acquaintances or friends saw him the same way.

Our last stop on the northward jaunt brought us to Agua Verde, another little village on the Baja coast just south of Puerto Escondido. Beautiful little western cove for anchoring, off a smooth, curved beach.

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The first afternoon we hiked the arroyo right off the beach, following hiking paths and goat trails, after seeing a herd of about 20 goats and two dogs negotiating the rocky shore and moving back into the hills while grazing. On the hike we met a man with his pit bull searching for the goats to bring them in for the night as protection against coyotes. We paddled in to the village the next day, and found that most of the homes had wooden fences, probably to keep out the goats and cows. Most of the homes, the church and the school were made of concrete blocks, and were fairly new, because a devastating flood came through in 1983 and one guide book described the place then as mostly deserted and only occupied by goats. Here is one more primitive home:

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The next day we hiked with some fellow cruisers to an old cemetery and found two pictographs left by Indians on large rocks near a cliff and cave. More snorkeling near the rocks, and a party on the beach with fellow cruisers from about eleven boats completed our delightful time at Agua Verde. Ah yes, and the sunset and moonrise the last night wove their peaceful tendrils of magic into our hearts and minds. Almost every day at some time we look at the other and say “pinch me, I must be dreaming this amazing scene”.

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This should go into the first paragraph with the food descriptions. Yummy stew.

Three Coves, Two Hikes, and One Wild Ride

Sailing across to La Paz from Mazatlan got off to a very good start. The port captain closed the bar on Friday April 5 due to large breaking waves, so we waited and snuck out Saturday morning. One of the cruisers at the marina took a video of Balance crossing the bar and posted it to You Tube. Go there and search Balance Timing the Waves to see it. After crossing the Columbia Bar in much wilder conditions Nikk says this was easy, but we sure bounced around a lot.

Saturday and Sunday the sun shone, gentle rolling waves made life grand on Balance except for a lack of wind to sail. The mainsail always stays up to steady us, but every time Nikk rolled out the headsail to catch some wind it died back to two or three knots, so the crossing was mostly motorsailing. We did have some company, we saw many Olive Ridley turtles paddling along, and manta rays jumping. When the rays get five feet above the water they crash down with a sound like someone bellyflopping in a pool. Must not hurt them that much. Here’s another common sight, what I think may be a Least Tern riding on a turtle, waiting for it to catch a fish.

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We ate sandwiches and spaghetti, cooking was easy without the stove wildly gyrating back and forth like it does when we’re sailing, and at 2am on Monday morning all that changed. I was on watch when Nikk got up after only sleeping an hour and said those dreaded words “I think it’s getting rough”. He’d been bouncing up in the V-berth, but in the stern of the boat the motion wasn’t bad (yet). The winds continued to build as we were about ten miles off Isla Cerralvo which is almost to the Baja mainland. Soon the winds were 25-35 knots on the nose, and we were pitching into 3-5 foot wave chop, augmented by long northerly rollers. When the two came together we got water over the boat and into the cockpit. All the water began to find it’s way into the cabin, drip, drip, drip. In the next ten hours we used up every towel on the boat and it was almost time to start using the dirty clothes when we finally made it to a little cove right at the juncture of Isla la Partida and Isla Espiritu Santo at noon the next day. Nikk and I had on our foul weather gear that we hadn’t worn since November coming down the west coast of Baja. We were lucky to see a boat anchored at the little cove and know it was a safe anchorage, since most of the east coast of the islands is not fit for anchoring. There are no pictures or video of our wild ride because we were afraid a wave would splash the cameras if we brought them out. Even though we hadn’t eaten in 18 hours we just hung out everything wet and crawled into bed to sleep for four hours with the wind still howling but the waves only about a foot high in the cove. After a quick dinner of red snapper fish tacos it was back to sleep again with the wind still howling in the rigging.

Tuesday morning brought a brilliant blue sky, less wind, and the perfect opportunity to put the kayaks in the water and paddle through the winding channel between the two islands into the cove on the western side. We passed by two fish camps with pangas on the beaches of the channel, and barely made it through with the kayaks at low tide, but when we exited the winding channel we were in one of the most beautiful lagoons I’ve ever seen. Turquoise and emerald water over white sand, with cacti and other desert plants marching up the steep hillsides. We beached our kayaks and carried them up to what we hoped was an area above high tide, then set off for a sign marking a trail.

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Imagine a trail up an arroyo filled at first with medium-sized rocks, then as the trail steepened the rocks becoming larger and larger, boulders of pink sandstone conglomerate packed with chunks of quartzite, slick basalt chunks, and sometimes reddish pumice. On up we toiled, being careful to avoid the cactus spines, past fig trees with octopus roots growing in the rock cliffs, and views of the cove which were more stunning with each ten meters of elevation gain.

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Those little dots in the cove are sailboats, we will be anchored there in about two days time, waiting for some strong winds that are coming Thursday and Friday to abate. Our climb up the arroyo led us to the cave Nikk remembered from 28 years ago. I can imagine the ancient peoples of the island sheltering there, and we did too, the sun was strongly parching us.

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Despite the heat we continued on above the cave to the base of a steep cliff and were surprised when we returned to the arroyo, two short-eared owls flew out of the arroyo and perched on the rocks to watch us. They are large owls, and are awake in the daytime more than other owls.

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Six hours after we left the boat we were back, luckily still with the kayaks, they were only two feet above the water line when we returned. And we were so parched, our quarts of water were long gone, and we drank a really large variety of fluids back at the boat. Wednesday we sailed up around the north end of the island, listened to sea lions out on Los Islotes, and came back down the west side of Isla la Partida to anchor at El Cardonal, another stunning cove with a trail onshore past mangoves, a lagoon, and an easy hike this time to the other side of the island. We spotted Ladder-backed Woodpeckers, Verdin, Black-throated Sparrows and an unidentified hawk, all desert birds. Tiny desert flowers bloomed near forests of organ pipe cactus, which resemble the saguaro of the Arizona deserts. Here is an old man organ pipe:

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In a cartoon he would be wearing a sombrero.

The beautiful weather held, perfect for hiking and exploring, or just lazing about on the boat reading and eating. I made a fish stew with the last of the snapper from Mazatlan, added garlic, onion, potatoes, and carrots to a broth of mole, cumin, and chili sauce. The new moon was on Wednesday, so we had inky black sky with thousands of stars to gaze at while sitting in the cockpit at night. It did get chilly, though, I wore the crocheted hat and layers of sweatshirt and fleece jacket outside at night. And the water was only 70 degrees, instead of the 80 degrees in the ocean over by the mainland of Mexico. Too cold for swimming and snorkeling.

Thursday we motored down to Puerto Ballena, on Isla Espiritu Santo, seeing many tourist pangas from La Paz, and some sea kayakers out with a touring company, heading for the white sand beaches. We anchored in shallow water in the northernmost cove, and paddled to shore to do a little more exploring.

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The arroyo we investigated was unexpectedly in bloom. Deep green geranium plants, bushes with flowers like impatiens, and then a mother goat and her all white kid on the hillside above. We are going back there now after four days in La Paz. I’ll cut this blog short so I can help Nikk get off the dock and out into the bay. We’re sailing to many desert islands over the next two weeks before heading back to La Cruz. Perhaps I’ll be able to share a few stories of La Paz and those desert islands when I’m finally back with internet connection again.

Here is one more picture of a hungry desert island denizen, a gigantic grasshopper.

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