Sailing across to La Paz from Mazatlan got off to a very good start. The port captain closed the bar on Friday April 5 due to large breaking waves, so we waited and snuck out Saturday morning. One of the cruisers at the marina took a video of Balance crossing the bar and posted it to You Tube. Go there and search Balance Timing the Waves to see it. After crossing the Columbia Bar in much wilder conditions Nikk says this was easy, but we sure bounced around a lot.
Saturday and Sunday the sun shone, gentle rolling waves made life grand on Balance except for a lack of wind to sail. The mainsail always stays up to steady us, but every time Nikk rolled out the headsail to catch some wind it died back to two or three knots, so the crossing was mostly motorsailing. We did have some company, we saw many Olive Ridley turtles paddling along, and manta rays jumping. When the rays get five feet above the water they crash down with a sound like someone bellyflopping in a pool. Must not hurt them that much. Here’s another common sight, what I think may be a Least Tern riding on a turtle, waiting for it to catch a fish.
We ate sandwiches and spaghetti, cooking was easy without the stove wildly gyrating back and forth like it does when we’re sailing, and at 2am on Monday morning all that changed. I was on watch when Nikk got up after only sleeping an hour and said those dreaded words “I think it’s getting rough”. He’d been bouncing up in the V-berth, but in the stern of the boat the motion wasn’t bad (yet). The winds continued to build as we were about ten miles off Isla Cerralvo which is almost to the Baja mainland. Soon the winds were 25-35 knots on the nose, and we were pitching into 3-5 foot wave chop, augmented by long northerly rollers. When the two came together we got water over the boat and into the cockpit. All the water began to find it’s way into the cabin, drip, drip, drip. In the next ten hours we used up every towel on the boat and it was almost time to start using the dirty clothes when we finally made it to a little cove right at the juncture of Isla la Partida and Isla Espiritu Santo at noon the next day. Nikk and I had on our foul weather gear that we hadn’t worn since November coming down the west coast of Baja. We were lucky to see a boat anchored at the little cove and know it was a safe anchorage, since most of the east coast of the islands is not fit for anchoring. There are no pictures or video of our wild ride because we were afraid a wave would splash the cameras if we brought them out. Even though we hadn’t eaten in 18 hours we just hung out everything wet and crawled into bed to sleep for four hours with the wind still howling but the waves only about a foot high in the cove. After a quick dinner of red snapper fish tacos it was back to sleep again with the wind still howling in the rigging.
Tuesday morning brought a brilliant blue sky, less wind, and the perfect opportunity to put the kayaks in the water and paddle through the winding channel between the two islands into the cove on the western side. We passed by two fish camps with pangas on the beaches of the channel, and barely made it through with the kayaks at low tide, but when we exited the winding channel we were in one of the most beautiful lagoons I’ve ever seen. Turquoise and emerald water over white sand, with cacti and other desert plants marching up the steep hillsides. We beached our kayaks and carried them up to what we hoped was an area above high tide, then set off for a sign marking a trail.
Imagine a trail up an arroyo filled at first with medium-sized rocks, then as the trail steepened the rocks becoming larger and larger, boulders of pink sandstone conglomerate packed with chunks of quartzite, slick basalt chunks, and sometimes reddish pumice. On up we toiled, being careful to avoid the cactus spines, past fig trees with octopus roots growing in the rock cliffs, and views of the cove which were more stunning with each ten meters of elevation gain.
Those little dots in the cove are sailboats, we will be anchored there in about two days time, waiting for some strong winds that are coming Thursday and Friday to abate. Our climb up the arroyo led us to the cave Nikk remembered from 28 years ago. I can imagine the ancient peoples of the island sheltering there, and we did too, the sun was strongly parching us.
Despite the heat we continued on above the cave to the base of a steep cliff and were surprised when we returned to the arroyo, two short-eared owls flew out of the arroyo and perched on the rocks to watch us. They are large owls, and are awake in the daytime more than other owls.
Six hours after we left the boat we were back, luckily still with the kayaks, they were only two feet above the water line when we returned. And we were so parched, our quarts of water were long gone, and we drank a really large variety of fluids back at the boat. Wednesday we sailed up around the north end of the island, listened to sea lions out on Los Islotes, and came back down the west side of Isla la Partida to anchor at El Cardonal, another stunning cove with a trail onshore past mangoves, a lagoon, and an easy hike this time to the other side of the island. We spotted Ladder-backed Woodpeckers, Verdin, Black-throated Sparrows and an unidentified hawk, all desert birds. Tiny desert flowers bloomed near forests of organ pipe cactus, which resemble the saguaro of the Arizona deserts. Here is an old man organ pipe:
In a cartoon he would be wearing a sombrero.
The beautiful weather held, perfect for hiking and exploring, or just lazing about on the boat reading and eating. I made a fish stew with the last of the snapper from Mazatlan, added garlic, onion, potatoes, and carrots to a broth of mole, cumin, and chili sauce. The new moon was on Wednesday, so we had inky black sky with thousands of stars to gaze at while sitting in the cockpit at night. It did get chilly, though, I wore the crocheted hat and layers of sweatshirt and fleece jacket outside at night. And the water was only 70 degrees, instead of the 80 degrees in the ocean over by the mainland of Mexico. Too cold for swimming and snorkeling.
Thursday we motored down to Puerto Ballena, on Isla Espiritu Santo, seeing many tourist pangas from La Paz, and some sea kayakers out with a touring company, heading for the white sand beaches. We anchored in shallow water in the northernmost cove, and paddled to shore to do a little more exploring.
The arroyo we investigated was unexpectedly in bloom. Deep green geranium plants, bushes with flowers like impatiens, and then a mother goat and her all white kid on the hillside above. We are going back there now after four days in La Paz. I’ll cut this blog short so I can help Nikk get off the dock and out into the bay. We’re sailing to many desert islands over the next two weeks before heading back to La Cruz. Perhaps I’ll be able to share a few stories of La Paz and those desert islands when I’m finally back with internet connection again.
Here is one more picture of a hungry desert island denizen, a gigantic grasshopper.